One of the most successful descriptions of the structure of atomic nuclei is the spherical shell model. It, however, becomes impractical when moving away from closed-shell nuclei. Instead, it is the interplay between the macroscopic shape degrees of freedom and the microscopic nature of the underlying single-particle structure in a deformed basis that determines the nuclear structure. Being the heaviest nucleus precisely in the middle of, known, closed proton and neutron shells, $^{170}$Dy has become a central calibration point for tests of collective models of nuclear physics. However, besides one candidate transition from a previous experiment in Legnaro, Italy, no experimental information is available for this nucleus. Using the EURICA setup at RIKEN, which couples the worlds highest intensity in-flight fission facility with a high-efficiency HPGe array, an experiment in November 2014 produced $^{170}$Dy nuclei by in-flight fission of a $^{238}$U beam. The results from this experiment provide a wealth of information on this elusive nucleus, including the evolution of quadrupole collectivity, rigidity and higher order deformations, as well as the long sought for isomeric $K=6^+$ state, predicted to be exceptionally pure at mid-shell. These results provide us with a rich level scheme for discussing both single-particle and collective structures at mid-shell.