Quantum gravity is the missing piece in our understanding of the fundamental interactions today. Given recent observational breakthroughs in gravity, providing a quantum theory for what lies beyond general relativity is more urgent than ever. However, the complex history of quantum gravity and the multitude of available approaches can make it difficult to get a grasp of the topic and its main challenges and opportunities. We provide a guided tour of quantum gravity in the form of 30 questions, aimed at a mixed audience of learners and practitioners. The issues covered range from basic motivational and background material to a critical assessment of the status quo and future of the subject. The emphasis is on structural issues and our current understanding of quantum gravity as a quantum field theory of dynamical geometry beyond perturbation theory. We highlight the identification of quantum observables and the development of effective numerical tools as critical to future progress.